Italy -- My Italy / by Erica Jong -- Welcome to our rented nightmare / by Mary-Lou Weisman -- Buon viaggio: a bouquet of reminders / by Kate Simon -- Tuscany -- The trouble with Tuscany / by Fred Plotkin -- Market day in a Tuscan town / by Frances Mayes-- Italy's best-kept secret / by David Leavitt -- Only in Tuscany / by Dan Hofstadter -- Coming home to chianti / by Gini Alhadeff -- Lucca: a Tuscan treasure / by Lorraine Alexander -- Siena in three acts / by William Zinsser -- Interview: Barbara Milo Ohrbach -- Interview: Frances Mayes -- Interview: Charlie Conrad -- Umbria -- Perugia / by Nadia Stancioff -- Spoleto: a town for all seasons / by Nadia Stancioff -- The hills of the sublime / by G.Y. Dryansky -- Interview: Joan and Roger Arndt -- Florence -- The first time I saw Florence / by Sallie Tisdale -- The other side of the Arno / by Jo Durden-Smith -- Florence, then and now / by Adam Begley -- Learning to live with arrivederci / by Susan Jacoby -- Interview: Lisa McGarry -- La cucina Italiana --Beaneaters and bread soup / by Lori De Mori -- Italy's original garlic bread / by S. Irene Virbila -- Tuscan olive oils / by Faith Heller Willinger -- Italy's vin santo: a sip of hospitality / by S. Irene Virbila -- Nach Waxman and Matt Sartwell favoritefood books: an interview -- Interview: Sergio Esposito -- A tavola! -- Florentine trattorias / by Faith Willinger -- Florence: a restaurant renaissance / by Faith Willinger -- Valle del Serchio and the Garfagnana / by Beth Elon -- Interview: Faith Willinger -- Piazze, gardini, e monumenti -- Back roads of Tuscany / by William Sertl -- Botticelli's Primavera / by Roy McMullen -- The cloisters of Florence / by Louis Inturrisi -- The Last Supper, seen six ways / by Louis Inturrisi -- A Tuscan and Umbrian miscellany.